For the uninitiated Santa Barbara County is an eye- and mind-opening experience. It opens your eyes to the reality that 100 miles north of Los Angeles might just as well be 1,000 miles. This truly is a get-away destination, whether you’re driving up from Long Beach or flying in from Chicago.
The Santa Barbara area opens your mind to a California “wine country” that is not yet overwhelmed by limousine tours and grandiose gated winery compounds (despite the enormous popularity of Hollywood’s take on wine fanaticism in the Santa Barbara-based film Sideways). Sure, thanks to the movie it is nearly impossible to stroll into The Hitching Post restaurant in the town of Buellton without a reservation, and there are definitely crowded stops worth avoiding on the “Sideways Tours” that came into existence after the film.
But, largely, my mind’s eye now associates Santa Barbara County with beautiful ocean views, rugged terrain, narrow two-lane roads that ribbon their way through vineyards and unspoiled open spaces, and memorable dining. And, of course, Bacara (left).
Lodging: Inside Bacara Resort & Spa
Less than 10 years old, Bacara has the look and feel of a venerable, established resort that might have attracted generations of overworked Hollywood moguls. It is certainly attracting the current mogul generation. The numerous high-end import autos lining the circular entryway are one sure sign. Bentley meets Rolls-Royce meets Porsche. (Our rented Town Car was parked by the valet in the lot out back!)
Bacara’s spa, according to the spouses, is exceptional and expansive, and its rooms are comfortably appointed. Even a non-suite feels reasonably spacious. We were surprised, however, that some of the invigorating bath soaps for sale at the spa were not placed, as a courtesy, by the tub.
Bacara is a series of three-story buildings tiered on a hillside above the Pacific Ocean, 10 minutes from the Santa Barbara airport. You will get plenty of exercise just walking from your room to the expansive lobby, where one evening a white-haired gent attending a conference sat down at a grand piano and performed a killer vocal rendering of Don McLean’s “American Pie”.
If you go during winter, expect to share the tranquility (or impromptu piano concerts) with corporate conferences and couples planning June weddings. The bellman told me the guests in spring and summer tend to be families and kids hanging out by the enormous pool (ringed by 26 private cabanas). There is an adults-only pool adjacent to the spa and the spa cafe.
For wine country explorers, you can begin with Bacara’s 12,000-bottle cellar. But the resort is located ideally for the more adventurous. Just west of Santa Barbara’s city limits, Bacara is within 30 to 60 minutes of the many premium wineries and vineyards in the region, including Bien Nacido, Brewer-Clifton, Dierberg, Fiddlehead, Foxen, Melville, Sanford and Sea Smoke.
Napkin Notes: The favorite dining stop was Bouchon on a side street in downtown Santa Barbara. (There is little reason to go downtown by day as Main Street is now lined by national retail and fast-food chains). Bouchon is casually elegant. The wine list is loaded with local gems. We loved a 2004 Foxen Julia’s Pinot Noir ($90). Try the Rack of Lamb. The fine cheese selection is worth a look, too. Our waiter David was efficient and hilarious. … Another A-list choice is The Stonehouse at San Ysidro Ranch, where diners are greeted by a lounge decked out in Ralph Lauren furnishings. We devoured delicious pork and veal chop dishes with a juicy ’04 Tantara Pisoni Vineyard Pinot Noir ($120). The plump “Iowa Pork Chop” is enhanced by a decadent helping of Colcannon mashed potatoes blended Irish style with cabbage and caramelized onions. Authentic. But you won’t regret choosing the braised veal chop atop herbs from the Ranch’s garden, gnocchi and butternut squash tossed in a light cream. … When you are out touring vineyards and tasting wines and lunch beckons, head to Sissy’s Uptown Café in Lompoc, where large sandwiches reign, and Los Olivos Café (Los Olivos) for fresh, fresh salads.